Porkpie Hats

The porkpie hat is defined by two things: a flat top and a very short upturned brim. The flat crown — technically called a telescoped crown with a flat top — distinguishes it immediately from every other hat silhouette. There is no crease, no pinch, no taper: just a cylindrical crown that meets the brim at a precise right angle. The silhouette is exact in a way that most hats are not.

The porkpie emerged in the 1830s as women's headwear — the shape resembled the English pork pie pastry, hence the name. By the 1890s it had crossed into men's fashion, and by the 1930s jazz musicians had adopted it as the hat of the form. Lester Young, the tenor saxophonist, wore it so consistently that it became his visual signature. Buster Keaton wore a porkpie in nearly every film he made. Walter White wore one in Breaking Bad. Each association reinforced a different dimension of the same silhouette — precision, rebellion, outsider authority.

Hatloom porkpie hats are available in wool felt and straw, in the classic low-crown silhouette that has defined the style since the 1930s. A rare hat that carries its full history in every wear.

Porkpie vs Fedora vs Trilby

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a porkpie hat?

A porkpie hat is a structured hat with a flat top (no crown crease), a cylindrical body and a short brim that turns upward all the way around. It originated in the 1830s as women's headwear, became a men's jazz and bebop staple from the 1930s onward, and is associated with musicians including Lester Young and Thelonious Monk. Available in wool felt and straw for men and women.

What is the difference between a porkpie hat and a fedora?

A porkpie hat has a flat top with no crease and a short upturned brim. A fedora has a lengthwise crease running front to back along the crown and a wider brim that is worn flat or angled, not turned up. The porkpie's flat crown is its defining feature; the fedora's crease is its. The two silhouettes are visually and structurally distinct despite both being brim hats in felt or straw.

How do you wear a porkpie hat?

Wear a porkpie hat sitting level on the head, approximately two finger-widths above the eyebrows. A slight forward tilt is the classic jazz-era orientation. The upturned brim should be even all the way around — do not try to angle or shape it. Pair with slim-cut suits, tailored trousers or smart-casual knitwear. The porkpie reads as too deliberate for casual sportswear and too idiosyncratic for formal black-tie contexts.

What face shape suits a porkpie hat?

The porkpie hat's flat top and short brim suit oval and oblong face shapes most naturally — the hat adds height without adding significant width, which elongates proportionally. Round faces can wear a porkpie but benefit from a slightly higher crown to add vertical length. Square faces may find the porkpie's rigid geometry echoes rather than softens the jawline — a fedora or trilby may be more flattering.

What is a porkpie hat made of?

Traditional porkpie hats are made from wool felt — the material provides the structure needed to maintain the flat top and upturned brim without internal support. Straw porkpie hats are the summer alternative, lighter and more casual in character. The flat-top construction requires a stiff material — soft fabrics cannot hold the porkpie's precise crown geometry without internal blocking.