Bowler Hats

The bowler hat — invented in London in 1849 by hatmakers Thomas and William Bowler for the gamekeepers of William Coke of Holkham — is one of the most precisely documented origin stories in headwear history. The brief was specific: a hat with a low, rounded crown that would not be knocked off by low branches when riding on horseback, unlike the tall top hat it was designed to replace. The resulting silhouette — hard felt, rounded dome, short curled brim — solved the brief so completely that it became a cultural fixture for the next 80 years.

The bowler's cultural journey is remarkable in its range. It began as working practical headwear for rural gamekeepers, became the definitive hat of the London city worker by the 1870s, crossed to America where it became the most popular hat in the American West (worn by cowboys, gamblers and railroad workers more than the now-more-famous Stetson), and entered its most iconic phase in the 20th century through Charlie Chaplin, Laurel and Hardy, René Magritte and A Clockwork Orange. Each association added a new layer to the same silhouette.

Hatloom's bowler hat collection honours the original specification: hard felt, precise dome crown, short curled brim — for the rare hat wearer who understands that the bowler is not a costume.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a bowler hat?

A bowler hat (also called a derby hat in the United States) is a hard felt hat with a rounded dome crown and a short, upward-curled brim. Invented in London in 1849 for William Coke of Holkham, it was designed as a practical riding hat — the low crown resisted being knocked off by branches. It became the defining hat of British city workers in the Victorian and Edwardian eras and remains one of the most recognisable hat silhouettes in history.

What is the difference between a bowler hat and a derby?

Bowler hat and derby are the same hat — different names used in different regions. Bowler hat is the British English term, derived from the Bowler brothers who originally made the hat in 1849. Derby is the American English term, named after the Earl of Derby and the famous horse race, at which bowler hats became associated with the spectating upper class. The silhouette, construction and materials are identical regardless of which name is used.

What is a bowler hat made of?

Traditional bowler hats are made from hardened wool felt — the hat is stiffened with shellac or resin to give it the rigid dome structure that defines the silhouette. The felt is blocked into shape under heat and pressure, then hardened. The result is a hat that holds its shape without any internal framework. A genuine hard-felt bowler hat should not compress under normal handling — it should feel as rigid as a light helmet. Soft-fabric bowler-shaped hats exist but lack the structural integrity of the traditional construction.

How do you wear a bowler hat?

A bowler hat is worn sitting level on the head, centred front to back, approximately two finger-widths above the eyebrows. It is not tilted forward or angled to the side in the traditional British style. Pair with a suit, tailored trousers or smart-casual separates — the bowler hat is inherently formal in association and reads incongruously with casual sportswear. As a statement piece, one deliberate bowler hat works best when the rest of the outfit steps back rather than competing for attention.

What is the history of the bowler hat?

The bowler hat was commissioned in 1849 by William Coke of Holkham, who wanted a low-crowned hat for his gamekeepers that would not be knocked off on horseback. Thomas and William Bowler — hatmakers in St James's, London — produced the first version, which Coke reportedly tested by jumping on. By the 1870s it was the dominant business hat in London; by the 1880s it was the most popular hat across the American West. In the 20th century it became a cultural symbol through Charlie Chaplin, Magritte's paintings and A Clockwork Orange.